Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Day 11: Amble to Lindisfarne

23nm, CTS 350, NE2

Slipped pontoon at 0455 to catch the tidal gate over the marina sill and shallow harbourmouth. A motor north, but as watches where on I slept through it all to arise for anchoring at 0800 and scrambled egg in the Farne Islands.

A beautiful calm morning in the bay surrounded by grey and common seals, guillemots, razorbills, puffins, kittiwakes and shags plus 4 wardens on the island who would not let us land from our tender at 0930 because of health and safety: come back at 1030! A smaller party visited again at 1030 and enjoyed the sanctuary, seeing all the birds.

A tranquil place when calm, time to reflect with awe and wonder by the island where Cuthbert wrestled with himself and God in C 7th. One of the islands has Grace Darling's original lighthouse, because, when not becalmed this is a treacherous place for sailors.

I helmed off for the 5nm saunter under Bamburgh Castle to the anchorage at Lindisfarne to sit out the stronger NE winds tonight.

After lunch in such a beautiful place we lowered the engine to the RIB tender (rigid inflatable boat) and we motored to the village harbour. Classic upside down boats covered in pitch as boat sheds, the castle on the headland, the ancient stone though not original thatch C7th monastery in the village. A peaceful walk, a bit of tourism, space in another St.Mary's Church.

Farne - from the Celtic Fahren meaning 'a place of retreat'. Lindis - a local river. There is certainly something very special about arriving here after a long voyage. I guess early pilgrim's walking here for days and weeks would share a similar feeling of arrival to a very special place of retreat rooted in prayer and story.

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